200 Series Without Factory Controls Steering Wheel Kit Install (2008 to 2015)
Your pre-facelift 200 Series left the factory with no buttons on the wheel, so this kit adds them through a wireless module matched to your headunit. The transmitter behind the wheel runs on horn power, the receiver goes behind your headunit, and the factory clock spring stays in the vehicle.
200 Series Steering Wheel Upgrade Kit (2008-2015) Without Factory Steering Wheel Controls
View product: 200 Series Steering Wheel Upgrade Kit (2008-2015) Without Factory Steering Wheel ControlsWhat's in the box
- Your PVS steering wheel, in the style and leather colour you chose.
- The wireless steering wheel controls module: a transmitter for behind the wheel and a receiver for behind your headunit, matched to the headunit you chose. The white horn booster cable comes off the receiver.
- The patch lead for Pioneer, Kenwood, Sony and JVC headunits, with that headunit option.
- Its ADR Certificate of Compliance.
Before you start
- A plastic trim tool and a torch.
- A socket for the centre nut and a torque wrench.
- A paint pen or masking tape to mark the hub.
- Your workshop manual, for the SRS discharge time and the centre nut torque.
- A steering wheel puller, if your workshop manual calls for one.
- Electrical tape, for the plugs and wires your vehicle doesn't use.
- If you're not confident around an airbag, have a qualified installer do this part.
Is this your guide?
This guide is for a 2008 to 2015 200 Series whose factory wheel has no control buttons at all. Your factory wheel has only the left-side audio buttons and no phone or voice buttons? You still have factory controls, and the 2008 to 2015 kit with factory controls is yours. Your clock spring already carries the wiring for the rest of the controls, so every button on the new wheel works, phone and voice included. 200 Series 2008 to 2015 guide
Your clock spring and the module
Your new wheel's buttons talk to a wireless module rather than to the factory loom, so the factory clock spring stays in the vehicle. The transmitter behind the wheel runs on horn power and the receiver behind your headunit is matched to it.
Follow the wiring diagram for your headunit brand for every connection at the wheel. If the plug at your clock spring doesn't match the new wheel, stop and send us a photo of both.
Horn booster
Never plug the horn booster into the 12 pin steering controls plug on the wheel. That puts 12 volts straight onto the steering controls board and can destroy it. It's the most common mistake we see, and it leaves a tail out of the wheel that snags as the wheel turns.
The horn booster is the white cable that comes off the wireless receiver behind your headunit. It supplies power through the horn circuit. It isn't a steering controls cable. With the lights or parkers on, some later vehicles see low voltage in the clock spring and horn circuit, and the horn sounds or the alarm beeps. The booster stops that.
The booster is only needed on later vehicles, from about 2016. It isn't needed on this vehicle, so leave it unplugged.
Watch the horn booster video before you connect it. Horn booster video
Step by step
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Disconnect the battery and wait
Take the negative terminal off, then wait out the SRS discharge time in your workshop manual. The airbag connectors sit behind the pad you're about to lift.
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Set the front wheels straight and mark the hub
Park with the front wheels dead straight. Leave them there for the whole job, so the clock spring stays on its centre while the wheel is off.
Paint-pen or tape the hub-to-shaft position before anything comes off, so the new wheel goes back on the same spline.
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Take the factory airbag pad off
Your 200 Series factory pad is held by three release pins behind the small trim covers on each side of the wheel. Pop both covers off with a plastic trim tool and shine a torch in. The right side has one pin towards the top, and the left side has two: one at the top and one at the bottom. Flick each pin to release it and hold the pad as the last one lets go.
Photograph every plug behind the pad before you unclip anything, then release the yellow SRS connectors by their locking tabs. Set the airbag down face up, clear of the job. Airbag pad removal, step by step
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Remove the factory steering wheel
Undo the centre nut and lift the wheel off without shock-loading the column. Use a puller if your workshop manual calls for one. From here the clock spring stays exactly where it is: never turn it, spin the hub for access or move the road wheels while the steering wheel is off. It holds a fixed number of turns and over-rotating it tears the ribbon inside.
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Fit the new wheel on your marks
Line the new wheel up with the marks you made. The spline should engage without forcing. Torque the centre nut to the spec in your workshop manual.
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Connect the wheel at the clock spring
Connect the new wheel at your clock spring as the wiring diagram for your headunit brand shows. If the plugs don't match, stop and send us a photo of both. Start a support ticket
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Wire the wireless module transmitter
The transmitter behind your wheel runs on horn power. Connect your horn feed straight to the back of the horn pad, then piggyback the transmitter's power lead off that same connection. Don't run the horn through the module.
Ground the transmitter to the left screw behind the horn pad. The wiring diagram for your headunit brand shows each connection.
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Fit the receiver behind your headunit
The receiver's harness goes between your factory headunit plug and the headunit, as your wiring diagram shows. How it meets the headunit depends on the brand:
- Alpine: plug the receiver's 3.5mm jack into the Alpine's steering remote socket, on the body of the headunit or on the patch loom with the microphone, depending on the model. It never joins the main loom's REMOTE leads.
- Pioneer, Sony, Kenwood and JVC: the receiver connects through the patch lead in your kit. The Key 1 and Key 2 wires on the loom aren't used, so tape each one off on its own, clear of each other and of any metal.
- PVS and Android headunits: the receiver connects to the headunit's steering wheel control plug.
- Factory Toyota radio: the receiver's harness sits between your factory headunit plug and the headunit.
Your wiring diagrams are under Your headunit, below.
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Leave the horn booster unplugged
The white cable coming off the receiver is the horn booster. It isn't needed on this vehicle, so leave it unplugged. Never plug it into the 12 pin steering controls plug on the wheel.
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Move your airbag across
Your factory airbag comes across to the new wheel. Transfer it from your original 200 Series airbag cover to the cover on your new wheel, then reconnect the yellow SRS connectors the way your photos show.
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Fit the horn pad
Reconnect the horn and every plug the way your photos show, then fit the pad. The PVS pad clips on with the same three pins you'll use if it ever comes off again.
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Reconnect the battery and check for power
Ignition on: the receiver behind your headunit lights solid red. Ignition and parkers on: your wheel buttons light up. Dark buttons mean the transmitter has no power, so go back to the horn feed connection.
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Set up your buttons on the headunit
On an Alpine there's nothing to do: the Alpine module plugs in and works. On every other brand, open the steering wheel control settings, start the learn sequence and press each button one at a time, waiting for the headunit to confirm each one before the next.
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Test everything
Before the trim goes back on, test your horn, every button and cruise. Test the buttons again with your parkers and headlights on. If the airbag light stays on, book an SRS diagnostic with a qualified technician.
Horn and cruise
- The new wheel's horn runs from your horn feed to the back of the horn pad, and the module transmitter takes its power from the same feed.
- Every 200 Series came with factory cruise. Your cruise stalk comes off and the cruise buttons move to the right-hand side of the wheel, like the 300 Series.
Your wireless module
- It ships paired. The transmitter behind your wheel and the receiver behind your headunit are already bonded, so there's nothing to pair.
- The button on the receiver doesn't program your wheel buttons. It starts transmitter pairing, which is only for bonding a replacement transmitter to your receiver.
- It runs on horn power. No horn feed at the transmitter means no buttons, whatever the headunit is doing.
- Buttons that work on one side only haven't been learned yet. Map the missing side in the headunit's learn menu.
Your headunit
Your receiver is built for the headunit you picked when you ordered: the factory radio, Alpine, Pioneer, Kenwood, Sony and JVC, or Android, PVS, Polaris and Aerpro. It doesn't carry over, so a different headunit later needs a new module. Pick your brand for its wiring and setup.
Alpine wiring diagram (PDF) · Pioneer and Sony wiring diagram (PDF) · Kenwood wiring diagram (PDF) · PVS headunit wiring diagram (PDF)
Watch it done
Watch a wheel come off
Horn booster install
If it doesn't work
- Buttons dark with the parkers on: the transmitter has no power. Check its lead is on the horn feed.
- The horn booster isn't needed on this vehicle, so leave it unplugged. Horn booster
- Buttons light up but do nothing: check the receiver connection for your headunit brand and learn the buttons again. Controls not working
Worth knowing
The wireless module is already in this kit, so you don't need the separate module.
