Wireless Steering Wheel Controls Module Kit
View product: Wireless Steering Wheel Controls Module KitUse this article if…
- Your wheel controls work until your lights go on, then they stop.
- Your horn sounds on its own, or stays on.
- You've been told your module is blown and you want to check the supply first.
- You've got a white cable coming off your wireless control receiver module and you're not sure where it goes.
Problem
- Your wheel controls and your horn share one circuit, and that circuit is running out of voltage.
Symptoms
- Your volume and track buttons work in daylight and stop once your lights are on.
- Your controls come back when you switch your lights off.
- Your horn sounds on its own, or sticks on.
- Your horn is weak or takes a firm press.
Cause
- Your controls run on horn power. The transmitter behind your wheel draws its supply from the horn circuit. No horn feed means no buttons, whatever your headunit is doing.
- Your lights share the load. On some vehicles the voltage reaching that module drops once your parkers and headlights are on, and the module stops responding before anything else shows a fault.
- A starved module looks like a dead one. The same shortage can leave your horn sounding on its own or staying on, which reads like a failed part.
Fix Step-by-step
- Run the two-light check first: ignition on, your receiver behind the headunit lights solid red. Ignition and parkers on, your wheel buttons backlight. Dark buttons mean no power at your wheel.
- Switch your lights on and off while you press a button: controls that come and go with your lights is the booster's symptom, and it rules out button mapping.
- Check your horn is wired straight to the pad: the horn wire from your clock spring goes direct to the back of your horn pad, and your wireless module piggybacks off that same crimp. Common mistake: running your horn through the module instead.
- Plug in the white booster cable: it comes off your wireless control receiver module. Take your steering column covers off, then plug it into the bottom of your clock spring, at the horn 12 volt pin. That's the pin your horn and your controls both feed from.
- Retest with your lights on: buttons and horn, parkers and headlights, before you put your trim back.
Notes
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Where the white booster cable connects, and which one you need
The white cable coming off your wireless control receiver module is the horn booster. It's labelled horn booster, and it isn't the steering wheel control connector. Those are two different plugs, and mixing them up is the first wrong turn.
- Take your steering column covers off: your clock spring sits behind them, and you can't reach its plug with the covers on.
- Find the bottom of your clock spring, on the steering column side.
- Plug the white cable in there, at the horn pin. The cable feeds that pin and boosts it.
The install video below shows exactly where it plugs in.
Count the pins before you order a replacement. A 12 pin booster comes with all of our kits and suits most vehicles. The facelift 200 Series LandCruiser uses a 14 pin booster instead, so that's the one to ask for if yours is a facelift 200.
Your existing horn wiring stays exactly as it is.
Horn booster install video
When it isn't the booster
Your horn, your stability control, your airbag light and your wheel buttons all stopping at once is one part, not four. Those run through your clock spring, and it gets damaged during a wheel change. Your buttons go with it because the transmitter takes its power from the horn circuit.
Get your clock spring replaced first, then retest. If your horn comes back and your buttons stay dead with your lights off, the module set is the next thing to look at rather than the supply.
