LandCruiser 100/105 Airbag Model Steering Wheel Upgrade Kit Install (1998 to 2007)
Your 100 or 105 Series clock spring carries the horn wire, plus a 3-pin or 4-pin plug for factory cruise. The horn feed goes to the back of the new horn pad and powers the wireless module transmitter. A 3-pin plug needs the cruise retention module to keep cruise. Without it, the plug stays unplugged and only cruise is lost. Only a 3 inch airbag detonator seats in the new wheel.
100/105 Series Steering Wheel Upgrade Kit (1998-2007) Airbag Model
View product: 100/105 Series Steering Wheel Upgrade Kit (1998-2007) Airbag ModelWhat's in the box
- Your PVS steering wheel, in the style and leather colour you chose.
- The wireless steering wheel controls module: a transmitter for behind the wheel and a receiver for behind your headunit, matched to the headunit you chose.
- The patch lead for Pioneer, Kenwood, Sony and JVC headunits, with that headunit option.
- Its ADR Certificate of Compliance.
- The 3 Wire Cruise Control Retention Module is sold separately. Cruise retention module
Before you start
- A plastic trim tool and a torch.
- A socket for the centre nut and a torque wrench.
- A paint pen or masking tape to mark the hub.
- Your workshop manual, for the SRS discharge time and the centre nut torque.
- A steering wheel puller, if your workshop manual calls for one.
- Electrical tape, for the plugs and wires your vehicle doesn't use.
- An aftermarket headunit. The 100/105 Series factory radio has no steering wheel control input.
- Soldering gear, if you're fitting the cruise retention module.
- If you're not confident around an airbag, have a qualified installer do this part.
Your clock spring plug
Your 100 or 105 Series clock spring has no steering control plug. It carries the horn wire, plus a separate 3-pin or 4-pin plug for factory cruise if your vehicle has it.
The horn feed goes to the back of the new horn pad and also powers the wireless module transmitter behind the wheel. Nothing new runs through the clock spring, so it stays as it is. 100/105 wiring diagram (PDF)
Check your airbag before you start
Your 100 or 105 Series came with one of two airbag detonator sizes, 3 inch or 4 inch. Only the 3 inch seats in the new wheel. If yours is the 4 inch, a 3 inch from a newer model is a straight swap. Send us a photo of your airbag before you start and we'll confirm.
Horn booster
Never plug the horn booster into the 12 pin steering controls plug on the wheel. That puts 12 volts straight onto the steering controls board and can destroy it. It's the most common mistake we see, and it leaves a tail out of the wheel that snags as the wheel turns.
The horn booster is the white cable that comes off the wireless receiver behind your headunit. It supplies power through the horn circuit. It isn't a steering controls cable. With the lights or parkers on, some later vehicles see low voltage in the clock spring and horn circuit, and the horn sounds or the alarm beeps. The booster stops that.
The booster is only needed on later vehicles, from about 2016. It isn't needed on this vehicle, so leave it unplugged.
Watch the horn booster video before you connect it. Horn booster video
Step by step
-
Disconnect the battery and wait
Take the negative terminal off, then wait out the SRS discharge time in your workshop manual. The airbag connectors sit behind the pad you're about to lift.
-
Set the front wheels straight and mark the hub
Park with the front wheels dead straight. Leave them there for the whole job, so the clock spring stays on its centre while the wheel is off.
Paint-pen or tape the hub-to-shaft position before anything comes off, so the new wheel goes back on the same spline.
-
Take the factory airbag pad off
The 100/105 Series factory wheel isn't held by the three side pins a PVS wheel uses. Follow your workshop manual, or send us a photo of the back of your wheel and we'll tell you what holds yours on.
Photograph every plug behind it before you unclip anything, then release the yellow SRS connectors by their locking tabs and set the airbag down face up, clear of the job.
-
Remove the factory steering wheel
Undo the centre nut and lift the wheel off without shock-loading the column. Use a puller if your workshop manual calls for one. From here the clock spring stays exactly where it is: never turn it, spin the hub for access or move the road wheels while the steering wheel is off. It holds a fixed number of turns and over-rotating it tears the ribbon inside.
-
Fit the new wheel on your marks
Line the new wheel up with the marks you made. The spline should engage without forcing. Torque the centre nut to the spec in your workshop manual.
-
Wire the wireless module transmitter
The transmitter behind your wheel runs on horn power. Connect your horn feed straight to the back of the horn pad, then piggyback the transmitter's power lead off that same connection. Don't run the horn through the module.
Ground the transmitter to the steering wheel. The 100/105 wiring diagram (PDF) shows every connection.
-
Leave the horn booster unplugged
The white cable coming off the receiver is the horn booster. It isn't needed on this vehicle, so leave it unplugged. Never plug it into the 12 pin steering controls plug on the wheel.
-
Deal with the 3-pin cruise plug
If your vehicle has factory cruise on the older three-wire stalk, there's a 3-pin plug at the clock spring that the new wheel has nowhere to take. To keep cruise, the 3 Wire Cruise Control Retention Module is wired into it, not plugged in, and it moves cruise to the buttons on the right-hand side of the wheel. The install video shows the joins soldered.
Without the module, tape the 3-pin plug up and leave it unplugged. Your horn and steering wheel controls still work, and only cruise is lost.
-
Fit the receiver behind your headunit
The receiver's harness goes between your factory headunit plug and the headunit, as your wiring diagram shows. How it meets the headunit depends on the brand:
- Alpine: plug the receiver's 3.5mm jack into the Alpine's steering remote socket, on the body of the headunit or on the patch loom with the microphone, depending on the model. It never joins the main loom's REMOTE leads.
- Pioneer, Sony, Kenwood and JVC: the receiver connects through the patch lead in your kit. The Key 1 and Key 2 wires on the loom aren't used, so tape each one off on its own, clear of each other and of any metal.
- PVS and Android headunits: the receiver connects to the headunit's steering wheel control plug.
Your wiring diagrams are under Your headunit, below.
-
Move your airbag across
Your factory airbag comes across to the new wheel. Transfer it from your original 100/105 Series airbag cover to the cover on your new wheel, then reconnect the yellow SRS connectors the way your photos show.
-
Fit the horn pad
Reconnect the horn and every plug the way your photos show, then fit the pad. The PVS pad clips on with the same three pins you'll use if it ever comes off again.
-
Reconnect the battery and check for power
Ignition on: the receiver behind your headunit lights solid red. Ignition and parkers on: your wheel buttons light up. Dark buttons mean the transmitter has no power, so go back to the horn feed connection.
-
Set up your buttons on the headunit
On an Alpine there's nothing to do: the Alpine module plugs in and works. On every other brand, open the steering wheel control settings, start the learn sequence and press each button one at a time, waiting for the headunit to confirm each one before the next.
-
Test everything
Before the trim goes back on, test your horn, every button and cruise. If the airbag light stays on, book an SRS diagnostic with a qualified technician.
Horn and cruise
- Your horn feed goes to the back of the new horn pad and powers the module transmitter.
- The 3-pin plug is the factory cruise plug from the older three-wire cruise stalk. With the retention module, cruise moves to the right-hand buttons. Without it, the plug stays unplugged and only cruise is lost.
- The module is sold separately because most vehicles don't need it. Send us a photo of your cruise stalk plug and we'll confirm before you buy.
Your wireless module
- It ships paired. The transmitter behind your wheel and the receiver behind your headunit are already bonded, so there's nothing to pair.
- The button on the receiver doesn't program your wheel buttons. It starts transmitter pairing, which is only for bonding a replacement transmitter to your receiver.
- It runs on horn power. No horn feed at the transmitter means no buttons, whatever the headunit is doing.
- Buttons that work on one side only haven't been learned yet. Map the missing side in the headunit's learn menu.
Your headunit
Your receiver is built for the headunit you picked when you ordered: Alpine, Pioneer, Kenwood, Sony and JVC, or Android, PVS and Aerpro. It doesn't carry over, so a different headunit later needs a new module. Pick your brand for its wiring and setup.
Alpine wiring diagram (PDF) · Pioneer and Sony wiring diagram (PDF) · Kenwood wiring diagram (PDF) · PVS headunit wiring diagram (PDF)
Watch it done
100/105 Series install: steering controls and cruise
If it doesn't work
- The airbag won't seat: it's the 4 inch detonator. A 3 inch from a newer model is a straight swap.
- Buttons dark with the parkers on: the transmitter has no power. Check it's on the horn feed and grounded to the wheel.
- Buttons light up but do nothing: check the receiver connection for your headunit brand and learn the buttons again. Controls not working
Worth knowing
Your factory airbag system is involved, so if you're not confident around an airbag, have a qualified installer fit the kit.
