70 Series Pre-Facelift Steering Wheel Upgrade Kit Install, with Cruise (2017 to 2023)
On a 76, 78 or 79 Series with factory cruise, built from the 2017 DPF model to the 2023 facelift, the new wheel bolts to your factory hub and its pink, white and blue 4-pin plug goes into the 4-pin cruise plug at your clock spring. The wireless module does the rest of the buttons: the transmitter runs on horn power and the receiver goes behind your headunit.
70er-Serie Lenkrad-Upgrade-Kit
View product: 70er-Serie Lenkrad-Upgrade-KitWhat's in the box
- Your PVS steering wheel, in the style and leather colour you chose.
- The wireless steering wheel controls module: a transmitter for behind the wheel and a receiver for behind your headunit, matched to the headunit you chose. The white horn booster cable comes off the receiver.
- The patch lead for Pioneer, Kenwood, Sony and JVC headunits, with that headunit option.
- The microphone Y harness for factory Toyota headunits, with the Factory Radio option.
- Its ADR Certificate of Compliance.
Before you start
- A plastic trim tool and a torch.
- A socket for the centre nut and a torque wrench.
- A paint pen or masking tape to mark the hub.
- Your workshop manual, for the SRS discharge time and the centre nut torque.
- A steering wheel puller, if your workshop manual calls for one.
- Electrical tape, for the plugs and wires your vehicle doesn't use.
- If you're not confident around an airbag, have a qualified installer do this part.
Is this your guide?
This guide is for a pre-facelift 70 Series with factory cruise control, from the 2017 DPF model up to the 2023 facelift. Your clock spring has a 4-pin cruise plug.
Built before 2017, with no cruise and a 10-pin clock spring plug with one wire in it? Follow the pre-DPF 70 Series guide. Facelift 2023 or later? Follow the facelift 70 Series guide.
Your clock spring plug
Your clock spring has no steering control plug. It carries the 4-pin cruise plug, and that's where the new wheel's pink, white and blue 4-pin plug goes: two of its pins are cruise and the third is horn.
The buttons for your audio and phone reach the headunit through the wireless module, so the factory clock spring stays in the vehicle, untouched.
Horn booster
Never plug the horn booster into the 12 pin steering controls plug on the wheel. That puts 12 volts straight onto the steering controls board and can destroy it. It's the most common mistake we see, and it leaves a tail out of the wheel that snags as the wheel turns.
The horn booster is the white cable that comes off the wireless receiver behind your headunit. It supplies power through the horn circuit. It isn't a steering controls cable. With the lights or parkers on, some later vehicles see low voltage in the clock spring and horn circuit, and the horn sounds or the alarm beeps. The booster stops that.
The booster is only needed on later vehicles, from about 2016. It isn't needed on this vehicle, so leave it unplugged.
Watch the horn booster video before you connect it. Horn booster video
Step by step
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Disconnect the battery and wait
Take the negative terminal off, then wait out the SRS discharge time in your workshop manual. The airbag connectors sit behind the pad you're about to lift.
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Set the front wheels straight and mark the hub
Park with the front wheels dead straight. Leave them there for the whole job, so the clock spring stays on its centre while the wheel is off.
Paint-pen or tape the hub-to-shaft position before anything comes off, so the new wheel goes back on the same spline.
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Take the factory airbag pad off
Follow your workshop manual for how your factory pad is held on, or send us a photo of the back of your wheel and we'll tell you.
Photograph every plug behind it before you unclip anything, then release the yellow SRS connectors by their locking tabs and set the airbag down face up, clear of the job.
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Remove the factory steering wheel
Undo the centre nut and lift the wheel off without shock-loading the column. Use a puller if your workshop manual calls for one. From here the clock spring stays exactly where it is: never turn it, spin the hub for access or move the road wheels while the steering wheel is off. It holds a fixed number of turns and over-rotating it tears the ribbon inside.
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Fit the new wheel on your marks
Line the new wheel up with the marks you made. The spline should engage without forcing. Torque the centre nut to the spec in your workshop manual.
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Plug the 4-pin into your clock spring
Connect the new wheel's pink, white and blue 4-pin plug to the 4-pin cruise plug at your clock spring. That carries your cruise and horn to the wheel.
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Wire the wireless module transmitter
The transmitter behind your wheel runs on horn power. Connect your horn feed straight to the back of the horn pad, then piggyback the transmitter's power lead off that same connection. Don't run the horn through the module.
Ground the transmitter to the left screw behind the horn pad. The wiring diagram for your headunit brand shows each connection.
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Fit the receiver behind your headunit
The receiver's harness goes between your factory headunit plug and the headunit, as your wiring diagram shows. How it meets the headunit depends on the brand:
- Alpine: plug the receiver's 3.5mm jack into the Alpine's steering remote socket, on the body of the headunit or on the patch loom with the microphone, depending on the model. It never joins the main loom's REMOTE leads.
- Pioneer, Sony, Kenwood and JVC: the receiver connects through the patch lead in your kit. The Key 1 and Key 2 wires on the loom aren't used, so tape each one off on its own, clear of each other and of any metal.
- PVS and Android headunits: the receiver connects to the headunit's steering wheel control plug.
- Factory Toyota radio: the receiver's harness sits between your factory headunit plug and the headunit, and the microphone Y harness in your kit goes in at the same time.
Your wiring diagrams are under Your headunit, below.
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Leave the horn booster unplugged
The white cable coming off the receiver is the horn booster. It isn't needed on this vehicle, so leave it unplugged. Never plug it into the 12 pin steering controls plug on the wheel.
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Move your airbag across
Your factory airbag comes across to the new wheel. Transfer it from your original 70 Series airbag cover to the cover on your new wheel, then reconnect the yellow SRS connectors the way your photos show.
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Fit the horn pad
Reconnect the horn and every plug the way your photos show, then fit the pad. The PVS pad clips on with the same three pins you'll use if it ever comes off again.
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Reconnect the battery and check for power
Ignition on: the receiver behind your headunit lights solid red. Ignition and parkers on: your wheel buttons light up. Dark buttons mean the transmitter has no power, so go back to the horn feed connection.
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Set up your buttons on the headunit
On an Alpine there's nothing to do: the Alpine module plugs in and works. On every other brand, open the steering wheel control settings, start the learn sequence and press each button one at a time, waiting for the headunit to confirm each one before the next.
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Test everything
Before the trim goes back on, test your horn, every button and cruise. Test the buttons again with your parkers and headlights on. If the airbag light stays on, book an SRS diagnostic with a qualified technician.
Horn and cruise
- Your horn and cruise reach the wheel through the 4-pin plug at the clock spring.
- Your cruise stalk comes off and cruise moves onto the wheel, 300 Series style. The cruise buttons work straight away, with nothing to program.
- The module transmitter takes its power from the horn feed at the back of the horn pad.
Your wireless module
- It ships paired. The transmitter behind your wheel and the receiver behind your headunit are already bonded, so there's nothing to pair.
- The button on the receiver doesn't program your wheel buttons. It starts transmitter pairing, which is only for bonding a replacement transmitter to your receiver.
- It runs on horn power. No horn feed at the transmitter means no buttons, whatever the headunit is doing.
- Buttons that work on one side only haven't been learned yet. Map the missing side in the headunit's learn menu.
Your headunit
Your receiver is built for the headunit you picked when you ordered: the factory Toyota radio, Alpine, Pioneer, Kenwood, Sony and JVC, or Android, PVS and Aerpro. It doesn't carry over, so a different headunit later needs a new module. Pick your brand for its wiring and setup.
Alpine wiring diagram (PDF) · Pioneer and Sony wiring diagram (PDF) · Kenwood wiring diagram (PDF) · PVS headunit wiring diagram (PDF)
Watch it done
PVS steering wheel controls install on a 70 Series
Headunit and steering wheel install on a 79 Series
Horn booster install
If it doesn't work
- The 4-pin plug won't fit your clock spring: your vehicle is pre-DPF. Pre-DPF 70 Series guide
- Buttons dark with the parkers on: the transmitter has no power. Check its lead is on the horn feed.
- Leave the horn booster unplugged on this vehicle. Horn booster
- Buttons light up but do nothing: check the receiver connection for your headunit brand and run the learn sequence again. Controls not working
Worth knowing
The wireless module is already in this kit, so you don't need the separate module.
Running an aftermarket cruise kit instead of factory cruise? Only the Autostrada kit works with this wheel.
