70 Series Steel Dash Steering Wheel Upgrade Kit Install (1984 to 2009)
Your steel dash 70 Series takes the wheel on the boss kit adaptor in your kit. Bolt the boss kit to the column, connect its pre-soldered horn cable to the new wheel, fit the wheel, then wire the wireless module: the transmitter runs on horn power and the receiver goes behind your aftermarket headunit.
70er-Serie Lenkrad-Upgrade-Kit
View product: 70er-Serie Lenkrad-Upgrade-KitWhat's in the box
- Your PVS steering wheel, in the style and leather colour you chose.
- The boss kit adaptor for the steel dash column, with M6 mounting bolts, an Allen key and a pre-soldered horn cable.
- The wireless steering wheel controls module: a transmitter for behind the wheel and a receiver for behind your headunit, matched to the headunit you chose.
- The patch lead for Pioneer, Kenwood, Sony and JVC headunits, with that headunit option.
- Its ADR Certificate of Compliance.
Before you start
- A plastic trim tool and a torch.
- A socket for the centre nut and a torque wrench.
- The Allen key that comes with the boss kit.
- A paint pen or masking tape to mark the hub.
- Your workshop manual, for the centre nut torque.
- A steering wheel puller, if your workshop manual calls for one.
- Electrical tape, for the plugs and wires your vehicle doesn't use.
- An aftermarket headunit. The steel dash factory radio has no steering wheel control input.
Is this your guide?
This guide is for a 70 Series with the steel dash: metal glovebox lid, no airbags, built up to the September 2009 safety update. That includes the V8 VDJ models from 2007, which kept the steel dash until that update.
Plastic dash with dual airbags? Your wheel bolts to the factory hub and you need the pre-facelift 70 Series guide instead.
Your column and the wheel's plugs
A steel dash column has no airbag hub and no SRS clock spring, so the plug on the back of your new wheel that would go into a clock spring has nowhere to go. Tape it up and leave it disconnected. Your horn runs through the boss kit's horn cable instead.
The wheel's buttons talk to the headunit through the wireless module, so nothing new runs down the column.
Horn booster
Never plug the horn booster into the 12 pin steering controls plug on the wheel. That puts 12 volts straight onto the steering controls board and can destroy it. It's the most common mistake we see, and it leaves a tail out of the wheel that snags as the wheel turns.
The horn booster is the white cable that comes off the wireless receiver behind your headunit. It supplies power through the horn circuit. It isn't a steering controls cable. With the lights or parkers on, some later vehicles see low voltage in the clock spring and horn circuit, and the horn sounds or the alarm beeps. The booster stops that.
The booster is only needed on later vehicles, from about 2016. It isn't needed on this vehicle, so leave it unplugged.
Watch the horn booster video before you connect it. Horn booster video
Step by step
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Disconnect the battery
Take the negative terminal off before you touch anything on the steering column.
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Set the front wheels straight and mark the hub
Park with the front wheels dead straight. Leave them there for the whole job.
Paint-pen or tape the hub-to-shaft position before anything comes off, so the new wheel goes back on the same spline.
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Remove the factory wheel and horn hardware
Take the horn pad off, undo the centre nut and lift the original wheel and its horn hardware off the column. Keep the factory hardware aside.
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Fit the boss kit to the column
Mount the boss kit adaptor onto the steering column with the M6 bolts and the Allen key from the kit. Tighten them evenly so the boss seats flush on the column.
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Connect the horn cable
The boss kit's horn cable comes pre-soldered. Route it and connect it to the horn terminal on your new wheel.
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Fit the new wheel to the boss
Secure your new wheel to the boss kit with the supplied hardware. Torque the centre nut to the spec in your workshop manual.
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Tape up the wheel's clock spring plug
The plug on the back of your new wheel has no clock spring to connect to on your column. Tape it up so it can't short on anything and leave it disconnected.
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Wire the wireless module transmitter
The transmitter behind your wheel runs on horn power. Connect your horn feed straight to the back of the horn pad, then piggyback the transmitter's power lead off that same connection. Don't run the horn through the module.
Ground the transmitter to the steering wheel core. The wiring diagram for your headunit brand shows each connection.
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Fit the receiver behind your headunit
The receiver's harness goes between your factory headunit plug and the headunit, as your wiring diagram shows. How it meets the headunit depends on the brand:
- Alpine: plug the receiver's 3.5mm jack into the Alpine's steering remote socket, on the body of the headunit or on the patch loom with the microphone, depending on the model. It never joins the main loom's REMOTE leads.
- Pioneer, Sony, Kenwood and JVC: the receiver connects through the patch lead in your kit. The Key 1 and Key 2 wires on the loom aren't used, so tape each one off on its own, clear of each other and of any metal.
- PVS and Android headunits: the receiver connects to the headunit's steering wheel control plug.
Your wiring diagrams are under Your headunit, below.
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Fit the horn pad
Reconnect the horn and every plug the way your photos show, then fit the pad. The PVS pad clips on with the same three pins you'll use if it ever comes off again.
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Reconnect the battery and check for power
Ignition on: the receiver behind your headunit lights solid red. Ignition and parkers on: your wheel buttons light up. Dark buttons mean the transmitter has no power, so go back to the horn feed connection.
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Set up your buttons on the headunit
On an Alpine there's nothing to do: the Alpine module plugs in and works. On every other brand, open the steering wheel control settings, start the learn sequence and press each button one at a time, waiting for the headunit to confirm each one before the next.
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Test everything
Before the trim goes back on, test your horn and every button. Test the buttons again with your parkers and headlights on.
Horn and cruise
- Your horn feed reaches the new wheel through the boss kit's pre-soldered horn cable. It goes to the back of the horn pad, and the module transmitter takes its power from the same feed.
- Your steel dash 70 Series has no factory cruise control, so the cruise buttons on the wheel have nothing to run unless you fit a cruise control kit. Only the Autostrada cruise kit works with this wheel. Cruise control kit for the 70 Series
- The new wheel's airbag cover works as a horn pad cover on your vehicle. There are no airbag electronics in a steel dash column, so nothing needs to be done to it.
- The white horn booster cable isn't needed on this vehicle, so leave it unplugged.
Your wireless module
- It ships paired. The transmitter behind your wheel and the receiver behind your headunit are already bonded, so there's nothing to pair.
- The button on the receiver doesn't program your wheel buttons. It starts transmitter pairing, which is only for bonding a replacement transmitter to your receiver.
- It runs on horn power. No horn feed at the transmitter means no buttons, whatever the headunit is doing.
- Buttons that work on one side only haven't been learned yet. Map the missing side in the headunit's learn menu.
Your headunit
Your receiver is built for the headunit you picked when you ordered: Alpine, Pioneer, Kenwood, Sony and JVC, or Android, PVS and Aerpro. It doesn't carry over, so a different headunit later needs a new module. Pick your brand for its wiring and setup.
Alpine wiring diagram (PDF) · Pioneer and Sony wiring diagram (PDF) · Kenwood wiring diagram (PDF) · PVS headunit wiring diagram (PDF)
Watch it done
PVS steering wheel controls install on a 70 Series
If it doesn't work
- Buttons dark with the parkers on: the transmitter has no power. Check its lead is on the horn feed and its ground is on the wheel core.
- Horn silent: check the boss kit's horn cable is connected to the horn terminal on the wheel.
- Buttons light up but do nothing: the receiver end. Check its connection for your headunit brand and run the learn sequence again. Controls not working
Worth knowing
The boss kit and the wireless module are both in your kit, so there's nothing extra to buy for the steel dash. If a 2007 to 2009 V8 has the plastic dash with airbags, it's a pre-facelift vehicle and this guide isn't for it.
