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Door Pod Install Guide, Front and Rear

Cut the door card for the speaker, mount the pod, then connect the speaker leads and the USB-C and puddle light loom. It's the same job on the front and rear doors.

جرابات مكبرات صوت الأبواب مع جيب

جرابات مكبرات صوت الأبواب مع جيب

View product: جرابات مكبرات صوت الأبواب مع جيب

What's in the box

Your set arrives with the pods, the supplied fasteners, a drilling template, an adaptor for 6.5 inch speakers and a plug and play loom for the USB-C ports and puddle lights.

Rear pods suit the 76 Wagon and 79 Dual Cab. The Troop Carrier, Single Cab and 71 Wagon take the front pods.

Before you start

  • A drill with 4mm and 10mm bits.
  • A jigsaw for the speaker opening.
  • Read the whole section for your doors before you drill, because incorrect holes can't be reversed.

What gets cut

The door card

You always cut the door card. It takes the speaker, its wiring and its magnet. No 70 Series door card has a factory speaker hole, because the factory speakers sit in the dash. The 79 has no rear speakers at all, and the 76 and 78 rear speakers are in the cargo area, not the rear doors.

The door metal

Front doors take 6.5 inch speakers without cutting the metal. Rear doors need the metal cut. A 6x9 speaker needs the door opening cut in both the front and rear doors.

Front door pods

  1. Remove the factory pocket

    Take the original door pocket off the door card.

  2. Clip the template on

    Clip the drilling template to the back of the door card, using the factory clip locations. Each kit has two front templates, so use the one that matches your clip layout.

    Early sets shipped with a template that put the speaker opening too high on the door card, and drilled holes can't be undone. If your set is an early one, ask support to confirm your template before you drill.

  3. Check the pod sits centred

    Confirm the pod will sit centred on the door card before you drill anything.

  4. Drill the holes and cut the opening

    Drill the 4mm mounting holes and the 10mm locating holes. Then cut the speaker opening with a jigsaw. A 6.5 inch speaker fits with the supplied adaptor.

  5. Mount the pocket section first

    Fit the pocket section with the supplied fasteners.

    Some locating tabs can snap in transit or while you fit. The tabs only hold the pocket and pod together for shipping, and they aren't structural once it's installed.

  6. Fit the pod

    Slide the pod over the locating tabs and screw it to the pocket with the supplied screws. Check it sits flush before you tighten the screws.

  7. Wire it up and refit the clips

    Connect the speaker wiring and the USB and puddle light loom before you put the door card back.

    Check every screw is tight but not over-tightened, then refit the door card clips.

Rear door pods

  1. Remove the ash tray

    Take the rear door ash tray out, if your door has one.

  2. Clip the template on

    Clip the drilling template to the back of the door card, using the factory clip locations.

    Early sets shipped with a template that put the speaker opening too high on the door card, and drilled holes can't be undone. If your set is an early one, ask support to confirm your template before you drill.

  3. Check the position

    Confirm that the speaker opening and the pod will sit centred on the door card before you drill anything.

  4. Drill the holes

    Drill the 4mm mounting holes and the 10mm locating holes.

  5. Cut the speaker opening

    Cut the 6x9 opening with a jigsaw. A 6.5 inch speaker fits with the supplied adaptor. The rear door metal needs cutting for either size.

    Clean up the edges and clear the debris before you mount the pod.

  6. Mount the pod

    Rear pods have no pocket section. Screw the pod straight to the door card through the drilled mounting holes, using the supplied screws. Check it sits flush before you tighten them.

  7. Wire it up and refit the clips

    Connect the speaker wiring and the USB and puddle light loom before you put the door card back.

    Check every screw is tight but not over-tightened, then refit the door card clips.

Speaker wiring

  1. Front pods

    Plug the front pod speaker leads into the original front speaker plugs, then run them through into the front doors.

  2. Rear pods

    The rear pod leads run from a plug in the driver side kick panel, then through to the rear doors.

  3. Skip the headunit

    Nothing for the speakers plugs into the headunit or its harness.

USB and puddle light loom

  1. Plug the loom into the headunit

    The loom plugs into the back of the headunit. It takes ignition power from the headunit's power plug, so the USB-C ports and the puddle lights work with the ignition on.

  2. Pick up at the door switches

    The puddle light negatives connect to the door switches, tapped in series. Opening the door completes the circuit through the switch, and the lights come on.

    Use the door switch circuits for the puddle lights only. The USB-C ports and the lights get their power from the headunit.

  3. Follow the lead labels

    Each lead is labelled for where it goes. FL USB and FL LED, for example, are the front left pod's USB and puddle light connections.

Speaker wiring kits

The Basic and Pro kits plug into vehicles with factory audio pre-wiring. The DIY kit is for vehicles without it.

Find your speaker wiring kit

If it doesn't work

The USB-C ports and the puddle lights get their ignition power from the headunit. Start by checking the ignition is on and the loom is plugged in at the back of the headunit.

If they still don't work, start a support ticket with photos of the loom and the plugs.

Worth knowing

The loom uses the headunit's power plug. It doesn't use a fuse tap or any other switched 12V supply.

Pods that shipped before September 2026 may have an older loom. Ask support about an older loom.